By The UNCHARTED® editors · 7 min read
This UNCHARTED couple’s honeymoon in Kenya sparked a quest for more adventure and romance.
Imagine waking up on the other side of the world to the roar of a lion and light inching across the almost otherworldly beauty of the plains. A place that, when experienced for the first time, leaves you transfixed in a state of awe. That’s Kenya.
When Casey and I started planning our honeymoon, we didn’t envision your classic lounging on the beach kind of idyll. We wanted a getaway that would combine our sense of adventure to go along with the romance of a loving life event. With plenty of destinations thrown into the ring, from Japan to Chile, Kenya was the one we kept going back to. When we met with Sandy Cuningham (UNCHARTED’s ultimate safari expert) and heard stories of the magical Chyulu Hills and dreamy Mara, we had our hearts set.
You might think that a trip like this off would take intense planning, countless hours of travel time, and an unnerving amount of luck. This could not be further from the truth. With the right team advising you along the way, this far-flung destination becomes easily accessible.
"When we heard stories of the magical Chyulu Hills and dreamy Mara, we had our hearts set."
When we touched down in Nairobi, we knew we had made the right decision. The capital of Kenya may not be first on everyone’s list of must-see destinations, it’s a little rough around the edges, but once you’re in the heart of this exponentially growing and bustling city, you will find a lot of history and charm. To get the most out of your short time in Nairobi, I recommend you read Unbowed: A Memoir You will learn about this nation’s past, the fearless leaders who fought for Kenya’s forests and democracy during post-colonial times, Wangari’s Green Belt Movement, and the bright future Kenya has ahead of it.
For a unique stay in the city, Eden Nairobi is your outpost. Bordering the Giraffe Sanctuary in the Langata neighborhood, Eden is an artistic escape from the bustling city. As the original family home and studio for Anna Trzebinski, this transformed estate is now the perfect stay enroute to your safari. Our one night at Eden was one to remember—winding down and appreciating the beauty of the art and architecture throughout the grounds. Everyone went above and beyond to make our jet-lagged arrival as entertaining and comfortable as possible.
Our safari began with a short charter flight to the Chyulu Hills National Park. We landed on the dirt runway where our first guide, Jeremiah, was waiting for us in his rugged Land Cruiser. Mt. Kilimanjaro dominates the landscape of the Chyulus in the distance, with other extinct volcanoes rising above the arid plains all around. Ernest Hemingway deemed this land the Green Hills of Africa, and you immediately see the attraction. On our short drive to Ol Donyo, the green hills provided a picturesque backdrop to herds of zebra, giraffe, gazelle, and so much more.
"Ernest Hemingway deemed this land the Green Hills of Africa, and you immediately see the attraction."
Ol Donyo is more than a thatched roof lodge. It’s hidden in the hills with sweeping views of the plains and Kilimanjaro. The sheer amount of wildlife around the lodge amazed us, as did waking up to roaring lions and massive bull elephants getting an early start at their watering hole. The lodge itself is quite spectacular, with seven stand-alone, individual cottages with sweeping views of the plains, indoor/outdoor showers, plunge pools, and a rooftop star bed. In front of the watering hole is a sunken container, deemed The Hide, where you can get safely up close to the elephants and other creatures coming into drink throughout the day. To us, the people we encountered were just as spectacular as the lodge and the wildlife. We were immediately welcomed with open arms, the friendliest, most heart-warming people you could imagine, and this was true throughout Kenya.
On to the Masai Mara, where the terrain is much greener, with snaking rivers in every direction. The immense amount of wildlife in the Mara will amaze you, with so many different species of birds, mammals, and reptiles. This is truly the place that comes to mind when you think of Africa—most famous for its expansive grasslands dotted with acacia trees, its great migration of wildebeest, Maasai villages, and much more.
We stayed at two camps in the Mara: Mara Expedition Camp and Mara Plains Camp. Both, set in their own private reserves, offer very different experiences. Mara Expedition is surrounded by new-growth trees that have been planted in an environmental race to save the green of the Mara, supported by the concept of the Green Belt Movement. Great Plains Conservation is working with local communities to help bring back the forests of trees once typical of these plains. You feel right at home under the camp’s thick layers of tan, rip-stop canvas. One of our favorite experiences here was a nature walk through the camp property. We learned so much about the importance of planting native trees in the Mara, along with the camp’s extensive eco-conscious efforts to solar power their chef’s garden, where the majority of what you eat at the camp is harvested. We even planted a wild olive tree on the property to come back and visit. With only six light and airy tents, we really felt like part of the camp’s family.
"Mara Plains is by far one of the most romantic destinations we’ve experienced, giving the term “under canvas” a whole new meaning."
Mara Plains Camp has a similar ambience, luxurious and private, and it’s just as immersed in natural beauty. We really felt a part of the landscape, in a forest directly on the winding river, with hippos directly below our suspension bridge. This camp is by far one of the most romantic destinations we’ve experienced, giving the term “under canvas” a whole new meaning. The allure of your own private verandah, a deep copper bath, and considerate design touches await under a raised tent, giving you a modern-day safari experience. The wildlife surrounding this camp is unmatched. We followed a mother cheetah and her three cubs, encountered a pride of young lions on the hunt, and chased distant hyena calls during our short stay.
Leaving the Mara, we flew north to the contrasting terrain of Borana Conservancy. Borana is set at the foot of Mount Kenya on the arid landscape of the Laikipia Plateau. Borana is a 32,000-acre wildlife conservancy that protects the wildlife and empowers the surrounding communities. Our guide, Lawrence, has been with the conservancy for quite some time and has become an integral part of their conservation efforts, which allowed us to get an in-depth look behind the scenes.
"Borana has become one of the most important rhino sanctuaries in Kenya."
Borana has become one of the most important rhino sanctuaries in Kenya. Rhinos from Lewa Wildlife Conservancy were translocated to Borana and the fence between the two conservancies was torn down to create a safe corridor for the rhinos to breed. One of our favorite activities here was rhino tracking. We arrived at the Borana ranger station early one morning and picked up a pair of scouts, who took us to a lookout point where we started our expedition. We walked around with the pair all morning in search of tracks to account for each rhino in our specified zone.
As part of our stay at Borana, we took a private flight to the Reteti Elephant Sanctuary. This far-reaching organization successfully rescues between 10 and 25 elephant calves in Northern Kenya each year, with the goal of reintroducing them into wild elephant herds. Visiting the orphanage, learning each of the elephant’s personalities, and hearing their stories really gives you a desire to advocate for their conservation.
We had a few Kenyans joke with us about catching the safari bug throughout our stay—and wow, did we. This magical place draws you in with its abundance of wildlife, harmonious people, and sense of adventure. It then leaves you with a will and desire to encounter more of its wild places. A true sense of curiosity and wonder for UNCHARTED adventure was sparked by this life-changing experience, and we’re already fantasizing about where our next great safari may lead us.
What We Packed ON OUR UNCHARTED SAFARI
Proof Rover Pant
Nocs Waterproof Binoculars
Just like the trusty Defender, these pants can comfortably handle any obstacle in their way - $118
Born in rugged Tasmania, these boots that can go through hell, but feel like heaven on your feet - $220
A true go-anywhere, haul-anything bag, that's is made for the market, road trips, and safaris alike - $119
Inspired by the generation of explorers who relied on their binoculars to discover the unknown - $95
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